BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends June 30, 2017
We have a couple of biggies in this last round-up for the month of June. We begin first with Vacheron Constantin’s epic Les Cabinotier Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 watch, a watch that combines 23 complications into a case that is just 13.6mm thick. Next, we have a brand new perpetual calendar watch from Patek Philippe. Patek Philippe is widely credited for giving us the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch, so every new perpetual calendar watch from them is a little special. In this round-up, we take a look at the very charming new Ref. 5320G. And from the Land of the Rising Sun, we have the Citizen Eco-Drive One, the world’s thinnest solar-powered watch. Find out how Citizen managed to create a solar-powered watch that is just 2.98mm thick.
Elsewhere, we have stories from the world of independent watchmaking, beginning with the news of Peter Speake-Marin leaving his eponymous brand. Find out what Peter will be up to next. To wrap things up, we visit the workshop of one of the most revered and prominent independent watchmakers, the creator of the iconic Antiqua and the man behind the epic Harry Winston Opus 3, the one and only Vianney Halter.
1. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 Watch Hands-On
The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 is a watch of grand numbers. But you probably already know that from its imposing name. 5 years of development, 23 complications, 6 barrels offering over 500 hours of power reserve, 514 components, and a caliber that, in spite of all its complications, is just a mere 13.6mm thick. But all of that is dwarfed by its $1,000,000 price tag. It is a thoroughly impressive watch and we got the chance to get up close and personal with it recently. Check out our report by hitting the link below.
2. Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G Watch Hands-On
Patek Philippe is widely credited for giving us the first perpetual calendar wristwatch. As such, a new perpetual calendar watch from Patek Philippe is always something of an occasion, especially for the hardcore Patek collectors. For 2017, Patek Philippe released a new perpetual calendar watch called the Ref. 5320G, which adapts and combines traits of various vintage Patek perpetual calendar watches. It’s a charming watch for sure, with an interesting stepped case construction, creamy ivory dial, and unique syringe-style hour and minute hands. For readers lucky enough to be considering a new perpetual calendar, this has got to be one of your top considerations.
Taking a look at the dial, one may be forgiven for thinking it is a three-hander using a big-date screen within the first few seconds. On the other hand, the Chanel Watch Kijiji Monsieur de Chanel has no date complication and just tells time. What Chanel has achieved is a dial that looks like it has a traditional layout and is highly legible, and yet manages to be different by incorporating two complications; a jumping hour and retrograde minutes. You browse the time starting with the large window at the bottom of the dial, which is the hour display and then towards the top, that is the retrograde minutes and then finally to a rather traditional sub seconds dial in the middle. Chanel has carefully made the screens so that the minute indicator does not overlap the seconds. This fairly simple yet strong presentation is done by two polished steel hands, along with a smattering of numbers and text, in a nice, contrasting white.The real star of the series, is the grand feu enamel dial itself. The first Monsieur de Chanel from this past year, while impressive, didn’t have a tooth dial and the visual effect that comes with it, particularly a black dial. Another haute horlogerie procedure, grand feu enamel dials require a painstaking quantity of time and effort to create and are unlike any additional dial material commonly used. The repeated use of tooth and firing in the kiln results in a smooth, unbroken surface which has a gentle, almost undetectable curvature into it.The Chanel Monsieur de Chanel (like the Slim d’Hermès), receives a typeface which such as the movement, dial, and case, was designed especially for this. The powerful, straight lines of the font make for a nice contrast to all of the curves and curves on the dial. Like the lions head logo, this font will be used in all future Monsieur de Chanel watches.
3. Citizen Eco-Drive One Watch Review
In the world of quartz watches, the Japanese reign supreme. After all, it was a Japanese company – Seiko – that gave the world its first quartz watch. Apart from Seiko, Citizen is another one of the world’s largest manufacturers of quartz and digital watches. Citizen is perhaps most famous for its Eco-Drive watches. First introduced around 1995, these are solar-powered watches that had solar cells hidden under the dial, allowing them to have a cleaner and more pleasing look. Last year, Citizen announced a new breakthrough Eco-Drive watch aptly called the Eco-Drive One, which is just 2.98mm thick, making it the world’s thinnest solar-powered watch. Here’s our review of this engineering marvel.
4. Bulova Moon Watch Chronograph 98A186 For 2017 Hands-On
Only a handful of brands can lay claim to having been on the moon. Omega is perhaps the most famous of them all, but so has Bulova. Despite Omega being the official watch of for missions to the moon, that didn’t stop astronauts from wearing additional watches of their own. One of such watches to make its way to the moon was a chronograph by Bulova worn by astronaut Dave Scott. Bulova, keen to impress upon the world its space credentials, released a modern replica of the watch that astronaut Dave Scott wore to the moon last year. For 2017, they are updating that modern reissue with a new darker and stealthier model that you see here.
5. Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On
Chanel is arguably more famous for its ladies handbags and fragrances, but last year, Chanel made headlines for releasing a new men’s watch called the Monsieur de Chanel. By all accounts, it is a great watch. I love the styling and it even has an in-house movement designed by the extremely talented Romain Gauthier. For 2017, Chanel is introducing a new version that comes in a platinum case and a gorgeous black grand feu enamel dial. Gorgeous, that’s one word that I never thought I would use to describe a Chanel watch.
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