Hands On Panerai Luminor Submersible 90 At A work of art revives and re-adapts time and space
A watch is a constant companion, and for a timepiece as versatile as a Swiss Panerai, this goes double. Because Panerai’s lineup includes large numbers of both winding systems, there is no “default” option imposed by selection, so it pays to take an inventory of one’s lifestyle before committing.
Selecting an automatic watch will ensure a virtual “set-it-and-forget-it” ownership experience. Autos, or self-winding watches, produce mainspring energy from wrist motion, and they sustain themselves day to day without intervention. For sheer convenience, this arrangement is tough to beat. Automatic Panerai Luminor Submersible watches feature a power reserve (run time) that ensures the mechanism of the watch will endure through the night without winding.
DIAL AS A CANVAS
A work of art revives and re-adapts time and space. The aesthetically pleasing watches have revived traditional crafts in their quest to bring something unusual and different. In fact, the use of metiers d’art such as engraving, enamelling, gemsetting and filigree as a means of decorating and embellishing a watch has reached its zenith. From marquetry in mother of pearl, feathers or butterfly wings, to the use of porcelain and embroidery, brands hope to differentiate their offerings and seduce a connoisseur clientele with miniature works of art on their dials.
Chanel’s Mademoiselle Privé collection with a raft of ‘coromandel’ dials, uses for the first time, the art of glyptic, a technique to sculpt semi-precious gemstones both in intaglio and relief; Jaquet Droz’s ‘Lady 8 Flower’ presents a lotus flower at 12 o-clock which reveals a pearl or a diamond enclosed in its petals and the Petite Heure Minute Relief Carps, a scene in champlevé enamel creating the illusion of carp playing underwater; Richard Mille’s RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur has a hand-painted gold magnolia on the dial which opens and closes to reveal a flying tourbillion which rises about a millimetre up out of the movement on its gem-set stamen to echo the motion of a flower arching upward toward the sun to increase its own chances of pollination; the Ronde Louis Cartier XL filigree watch reinvents the centuries-old technique of filigree; Harry Winston’s Midnight Feathers series uses a marquetry of brown and black domestic goose feathers on its dial, giving it a surprising wood-like striping, while La Montre Hermès offers a dial in porcelain de Sèvres hand-painted by a Japanese master artisan and featuring the famous Kyoto horse race.