SIHH 2016 Preview: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept In A White Gold Case
Schaffhausen-based boutique watch brand H. Moser & Cie. exhibits at Geneva’s SIHH watch fair for the first time in January, and for its inaugural appearance it will be launching a very exclusive new timepiece: the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept, an even more minimalist version of its award-winning perpetual calendar watch in a white gold case and limited to just 10 pieces worldwide.
The main difference between the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar and most of the competitors is its visual purity, its virtual simplicity that tends to make you think that you’re in front of just a 3-hand watch, with date and power reserve. Take a look at the normal edition that we reviewed and you’ll find out. However, one little detail makes a world of difference: the tiny little arrow hand placed on the central axis. It cleverly uses the 12 indexes to display the months of the year. The rest is all about a QP: flash-date that instantaneously jumps at midnight and leap year displayed on the movement side.
For many horological aficionados, this cult-favorite Swiss brand put itself on the map in 2006, when its original H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar, unveiled in 2005, won the Complicated Watch Award at the Geneva Grand Prix. Its revolutionary, streamlined design — with the 12 hour indices used to indicate both the hours and, by means of a small pointer hand, the months of the year; an understated date window at 3 o’clock; and a power-reserve indicator at 9 o’clock — the watch became a collectors’ favorite and has been reinterpreted by Moser in several versions in the years since.
This most recent version is the most extreme example yet of Moser’s “Complexity Made Simple” principle. The Endeavor Perpetual Calendar Concept features the brand’s hallmark, smoke-gray “fume” dial with sunburst pattern, here minus even the brand logo and hour indices that graced previous models. Hours and minutes are indicated by leaf-shaped hands, while an unobtrusive, arrow-tipped hand points to the month. Another, smaller hand at 9 o’clock displays the remaining power reserve (the movement stores an impressive seven days of running time when fully wound), and a large date, with white on black numerals, appears at 3 o’clock. Unlike many other calendar best watches online, this one allows the date to be adjusted forward or backward at any time of day.
The 18k white gold case measures 40.8 mm in diameter and 11.1 mm thick, with curved sapphire crystals adorning the front and back. The screw-down crown has an engraved Moser “M,” and the caseback bears an engraved notation with the limited edition number.
Inside the case is Moser’s in-house Caliber HMC 341, with automatic winding, 28 jewels, and a frequency of 18,000 vph. In addition to the aformentioned week-long power reserve and the bidirectional date adjustment function, its notable features include the interchangeable Moser escapement, an original design that allows for easy servicing of the watch; a pallet fork and escapement wheel made of gold; and another Moser invention, the Original Straumann hairspring with a stabilized Bregeut overcoil. Further adding to the dial’s clean simplicity, the leap-year indicator — another important function in any perpetual calendar timepiece — is found on the movement side, visible through the rear sapphire crystal.
This new edition leaves the bitter-sweet feeling of a watch that is visually superb, hyper-clean and racy but that is also strange in terms of the very idea of a watch: displaying its indications clearly and easily. You’re now aware. This H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept has to be bought knowingly.